December 18, 2011

Top 5 Reasons We Did Not Enjoy the Overnight Train in Vietnam

by Anna

5. The train looked like it rolled out of 1955, and I’m pretty sure that was the last time it had been cleaned.

4. The ride felt like Thunder Mountain Railroad…sounds fun, but not for 16 hours or when trying to balance over the metal hole in the bathroom.

3. The entire train car reeked of rancid, stinky feet as everyone on it removed their shoes about an hour into the journey.

2. The shady man across the aisle from my seat chain smoked with his two-thumbed hand in our non-smoking car and stared at Johnny and me for most of the trip.

…and the #1 reason we did not enjoy the overnight train from Da Nang to Ninh Binh…

1. Cockroaches! The fearless little pests crawled on the walls, the backs of the seats and even on to us a few times.

The train from Ninh Binh to Hanoi wasn’t much better, but at least it was only a couple of hours. This time, the only seats available were the top bunks in a four-person sleeper, and the woman beneath Johnny’s bunk hacked up a lung the entire trip. The best part was that she would hock up her loogies into a plastic tupperware sitting on her lap. She had quite a collection going by the time we got to Hanoi. Oh…the joys of travel!

Posted in Random Musings, Vietnam | 3 Comments »

December 17, 2011

Ninh Binh Stopover

by Johnny

We were really enjoying our introduction to Vietnam in Hoi An, but unfortunately the weather wasn’t doing us any favors.  With rain, rain and more rain in the forecast for the rest of the week, we decided to leave central Vietnam and head north a couple days early.  After an, ummm, interesting overnight train ride (more on this soon), we arrived in Ninh Binh.  Ninh Binh itself is a bit of a hole, but the stunning karst landscape on the outskirts of town, often called “Ha Long Bay in the rice paddies,” makes it worth a stop.  With only one full day, our guesthouse suggested we borrow their scooter and ride to nearby Trang An to check out some of the famous caves and grottoes.  When we pulled up to Trang An, we found a handful of Vietnamese women offering to row us around in their tiny boats for a couple hours for a few bucks.  Although we were skeptical that a four foot tall, 70-year-old woman could get us very far (I nearly passed out while rowing our boat on Lake Bled), we decided to go for it.  We’re glad we did.  The scenery was incredible, and the accompanying peace and quiet (Vietnam is crazy!) was just what we needed.  Also, much to our surprise and delight, rather than row around these giant limestone cliffs, we were able to row right through them, as centuries of erosion has produced numerous caves and underground waterways.  For the next couple of hours we explored this beautiful landscape, passing only  hidden pagodas and a handful of Vietnamese locals (who somehow row with their feet).  Super cool.  So, how will “Ha Long Bay in the rice paddies” stack up to the actual Ha Long Bay?  We’ll find out soon.

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December 16, 2011

Hoi An, What a Charmer!

by Anna

We had read that Hoi An was one of the prettiest little towns in SE Asia…a bold statement! After spending a couple of days there, I can vouch that this is true – at least from what I’ve seen of SE Asia so far.

Although we didn’t luck out with the best weather, the rain didn’t deter us from exploring the lush, colorful streets of the Old Town which happens to be a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hoi An was a major trading port back in the day (15th-19th century), drawing many foreign influences to the area, resulting in the eclectic architecture of the city. The narrow streets lined with oversized palms and ochre-hued buildings gave us the strange sensation of being transported back to France or Spain, while Chinese-style carved wooden shop fronts with mossy tiled roofs and an intricate Japanese covered bridge give the area a distinct Asian flare. The lanterns hung from the trees and zig zagging across the streets and tiny women in conical straw hats grilling Bun Cha on the sidewalk snapped us back to the fact that we were in Vietnam. The combined aesthetics of Europe and Asia made for a unique and fascinating setting. The food followed suit, with stacks of fresh baked baguettes alongside piles of dragon fruit, rice noodles and all types of green leafy herbs at the market along the river.

The market was chaotic and sensory overload. We couldn’t wait to try the new flavors that awaited us in Vietnam. We read on the menu of one of our favorite restaurants in Hoi An, Morning Glory, which “brought street food to the table,” that Vietnamese get homesick without fresh herbs and that dishes strive to achieve a balance between yin and yang. I’m all for this philosophy because all the food that we ate in Hoi An was amazing and has left me with a crispy pancake addiction and Johnny with a Banh Mi (Vietnamese baguette sandwich) addiction. We are also both most likely to OD on Vietnamese coffee before we leave the country, because it is so freaking delicious! It is served in a glass topped with a small metal French drip filter, only adding to the anticipation for the first sip as it drips slowly in front of you, the rich scent wafting up into your nostrils. We would switch back and forth between black coffee and white coffee (a sweet delight with condensed milk) depending on our mood.

The market
Vietnamese food philosophy 101 Chicken rice packed with fresh herbs
Banh Mi Pre-stirred “white coffee”
I love you, crispy pancakes De-boning fish steamed in banana leaves

We spent our two days in Hoi An just wandering around enjoying the narrow streets, peeking into the many historic pagodas and temples and pretty craft shops, watching the action taking place in the tailor shops (Hoi An is known as the best spot to have clothes and shoes made-to-order, and the town has more than 200 tailors to choose from!) and of course, eating. Although Hoi An has become a pretty touristy spot, we still really enjoyed our time there and couldn’t think of a more charming introduction to Vietnam!

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December 15, 2011

Siem Reap

by Anna

Last week we made the infamous crossing over the Poipet Thai-Cambodia border. We had heard all sorts of horror stories of swindlers and scammers at the border, so we made arrangements with our guesthouse in Siem Reap to have a “greeter” and taxi waiting for us on the other side. As soon as we stepped foot onto Cambodian soil, the first thing we saw was a giant black and white poster of Johnny’s face! With his beard it looked like an America’s Most Wanted sign, but luckily it was our friendly greeter who walked us through the remaining border lines and finally to our taxi. Phew! We made it, hassle-free, into Cambodia.

Our first impression of Cambodia (other than hysterics at seeing the huge image of Johnny’s face at the border) was how genuinely warm and friendly the people were. We also couldn’t believe how lovely Siem Reap was as we pulled into town along a wide tree-lined boulevard, past the Royal Gardens (and several regal hotels), over the slow moving Siem Reap river and down a red dirt road to our guesthouse. You would have thought we had checked in at the Ritz Carlton with the level of hospitality that met us at this place. We couldn’t get over how polite and sweet the staff were. Every time we returned back to the guesthouse they were all there to greet us and hand us ice cold Tiger Balm towels. We had a huge breakfast every morning that was included with our stay, free wifi, free tea, coffee and water all day and a huge, charming and immaculately clean room, all for $20/night! You can’t beat that!

The Royal Gardens
Siem Reap River
Our guesthouse was decked out for the holidays!

When we weren’t cruising around in a tuk tuk marveling at the temples of Angkor, we were wandering the fun, lively streets of Siem Reap, enjoying the plethora of delicious food options and bargaining our hearts out at the markets. We could see how Siem Reap was a hot spot in the 50s and 60s when stars like Jackie Kennedy and Charlie Chaplin were lured by the temples and silk markets. Unfortunately the hey day in Siem Reap was abruptly halted due to the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror beginning in the 70s. Cut off from the world and put through traumatizing genocide, it wasn’t till the mid 90s that Cambodia and Siem Reap began to reemerge as a tourist destination. Slowly but surely the country has been  building steam ever since, and Siem Reap is once again the place to be.

Pub Street Lots of “Fish Massages” available on the streets
Some ladies brave enough to get the “Fish Massage” where tiny fish nibble the dead skin off your feet
Restaurants and shops along The Alley
Sampling the local brew Sampling Khmer cuisine

Although the city is brimming now with tourists, the devastation that the Khmer Rouge left in its wake and the poverty that affects the country are significant. Luckily many organizations in the city have set up “cause-dining” or shopping whereby you can eat at restaurants that train young, disadvantaged youth to become chefs, or shop at stores that support local craftsmen. There were many places with many worthy causes to support. Some of our favorite spots were Le Café, Butterflies Garden, Touich and the Singing Tree Café. Every place we went we continued to encounter sweet Cambodian people whose big beautiful smiles were truly heartwarming.

Last, but certainly not least, I couldn’t end this entry without talking about the markets! Johnny, who gets hives and breaks out in a cold sweat if I mention the word “shopping,” even got into the fun at the Old Market and Night Market. Our favorite market was  Psar Chaa (Old Market). You could buy everything from silk scarves to pigs’ heads to haircuts in the labyrinth of stalls and passageways. The vendors were all very good-natured and easy to barter with, which made negotiating (something I usually hate!) really fun. Johnny and I had to laugh because at the airport in Johannesburg leaving South Africa, we had 8 rand (approx. $1) left. We wanted to get rid of the rand before we left the country so we went on a mission through the airport to try and find something for $1… a pack of gum…a granola bar? Nope, nothing. We couldn’t find a single thing to buy with a dollar. In Siem Reap it was quite the opposite…the dollar was king. You could buy almost anything for $1 – a tuk tuk ride, 10 bracelets, 2 pineapples – we couldn’t help but load up on some souvenirs to send home and had a really fun time in the process.

Halls of scarves and jewelry in the Old Market Gearing up for some serious bartering
Around Psar Chaa/Old Market
The food sector of the Old Market
 All sorts of items on offer at the market from pigs’ heads… …to dragon fruit
Fruit stalls in the market
So many options causes serious indecision!
Outside the Night Market

We know we were in a bit of a bubble in Siem Reap, but we really loved the time we spent there, and maybe one day we will have the opportunity to return and see more of Cambodia. We hope that good things come to this country and its beautiful people as they continue to heal and rebuild.

Wheelie beasts in tow on our tuk tuk to the airport…next stop: Vietnam!

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December 15, 2011

Temples of Angkor

by Johnny

When I was in 8th grade I bought a special photography issue of Life magazine titled, “100 Places to See in Your Lifetime” which showcased some of the most historic, beautiful and unique places on earth. I remember being blown away at how many treasures there were out in the world…and they all seemed to be begging me to visit. I must’ve thumbed through it a million times, and it’s still tucked safely away somewhere in our storage unit. It’s almost as if buying that magazine all those years ago planted the idea of our current round-the-world trip somewhere deep in my brain (sorry, I just watched Inception on the flight over). Out of all the places highlighted, however, two in particular captured my imagination: Machu Picchu and Angkor Wat. I guess I’m just a sucker for ancient ruins from lost civilizations hidden deep in the jungle. While we’re determined to make it to Machu Picchu one day, we were lucky enough to spend the past few days exploring Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples.

A Cliffs Notes history lesson:  Angkor was the capital of the once-powerful Khmer Empire, which ruled the majority of Southeast Asia from AD 802 to 1431.  During this period, various Khmer rulers built hundreds of elaborate Hindu and Buddhist temples and monuments stretching across 400 square kilometers.  After the Khmer Empire was defeated by the Thais in 1431, the temples were left largely unoccupied at the mercy of the jungle until they were “discovered” by the French in 19th century (although many Buddhist monks had continued to us Angkor Wat as a pilgrimage site during this period).  After capturing the world’s imagination and becoming a popular tourist destination in the early 1900s, Angkor suffered a setback in the 1960s and 1970s due to the Vietnam war and Cambodia’s own tragic civil war.  However, Angkor is once again the pride and joy of Cambodia, if not all of Southeast Asia, having been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992.  Anna and I armed ourselves with a couple three-day passes and headed out with our trusty tuk-tuk driver, Sol, to see as much of this amazing area as we could.

On our first day, we explored the temples in and around Angkor Thom, a fortified city built in the 1100s and considered the largest pre-industrial city in the world. At its peak, Angkor Thom boasted a population of nearly one million (at a time when London had a mere population of around 50,000).  As soon as Anna and I approached the south gate of Angkor Thom and got our first glimpse of the temples, I swear we simultaneously started humming the Indiana Jones theme song.  Seeing these ruins in the middle of the jungle made us feel like were were in some sort of dream world.  We half expected to be greeted by Mowgli from The Jungle Book.  It was just incredible.  The highlights from our first day were Bayon (with its towers of stone faces), Thommanom (where we had the entire temple to ourselves) and Ta Prohm (where the ruins have been overtaken by the jungle).  OK, enough jibber-jabber…here are some pics:

Our tuk-tuk driver Sol approaching the south gate of Angkor Thom
The towers of stone faces at Bayon
The bas-reliefs at Bayon Carvings at the Terrace of the Leper King
The three-tiered temple mountain of Baphuon
Chau Say Thevoda Thommanom
My buns were a little sore after climbing the steps at Ta Keo
The jungle overgrowth at Ta Prohm
Ta Prohm Ta Prohm

On our second day we headed out with Sol to see some of Angkor’s more remote temples.  Again we felt like treasure hunters as we explored the ins and outs of each temple.  Our favorites from day two were Pre Rup (surrounded by jungle as far as the eye can see), Banteay Srei (with its intricate carvings) and East Mebon (with its stone elephants).  It was also super cool riding our tuk-tuk through the Cambodian countryside and waving at the smiling villagers as we passed by.

At the top of Pre Rup
Pre Rup Pre Rup
Banteay Srei
Banteay Srei Carvings at Banteay Srei
Banteay Srei
Anna making friends at East Mebon
Approaching Preah Khan
More jungle overgrowth at Preah Khan

We saved the grandaddy of them all for our final day.  Angkor Wat is the heart and soul of Cambodia.  It’s the country’s source of national pride.  It’s on its flag and on its beer.  It’s the largest religious structure in the world.  And it’s amazing.  We got to Angkor Wat around 5:00am to get a good spot for its famous sun rise.  Good thing, too, because before we knew it we turned around and there was a sea of people flooding in.  Despite the crowd, it was so worth it to see Angkor Wat at sunrise, as these pictures can attest:

Sunrise at Angkor Wat
Sunrise at Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat Angkor Wat
Novice monks at Angkor Wat
Sun’s out at Angkor Wat
The humungous moat at Angkor Wat
Heading back for a nap in the tuk-tuk

I had been building up a visit to the temples of Angkor in my mind ever since I bought that Life magazine many years ago, but seeing them in person blew away whatever lofty expectations I may have had. It’s an inspiring place where your imagination truly runs wild.

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December 8, 2011

Lazy Days On Koh Chang

by Johnny

Anna and I weren’t quite ready to say goodbye to the laid back vibe of Koh Chang just yet. After a fantastic week-long stay at Little Eden on Lonely beach, we moved about 15 minutes up the road to the village of Klong Prao, and unless you want to hear stories of us drinking fruit smoothies, laying on the beach, reading books and watching sunsets, there really isn’t much to blog about.

I do, however, have to mention our accommodation, Baan Rim Nam. It was definitely one of our favorite spots so far. First of all, the helpful owner Ian (who has an awesome Golden Retriever named Santa) has the type of back story I daydream about after a few Chang beers on the beach. After growing tired of life as a banker in the U.K., he moved to Israel for a year.  After that, he made his way to India and rode his bike for another year throughout India and Burma before finally reaching Thailand. With a flight home and only $100 in his pocket, he opted to stay in Thailand and has been here ever since.

Baan Rim Nam (“house on the water”) isn’t just a clever name; the three bedrooms and two communal decks are built on stilts over the Klong Prao river estuary leading out to the beach. It’s a little off the beaten path (about a 20 minute walk from the main road plus a final crossing of wooden planks above a mangrove), but its setting is worth the extra effort. To get to the beach, we would either have to walk a couple minutes down a dirt path through a grove of palm trees (not-so-fun fact; falling coconuts kill 150 people worldwide per year) or paddle down the estuary in one of Ian’s kayaks. Our typical day at Baan Rim Nam would be: wake up, kayak across the estuary for some coffee, walk to the beach, swim, get some lunch, read on the deck, kayak across the estuary for a cheap massage, walk to the beach to see the sunset, walk to town for some dinner and finally relax on the deck watching the local villagers row by. Not bad, eh?

View from the deck at dusk
View back up the estuary from from the deck
Tying up the kayak after a serious paddle Hanging out on the deck’s comfy hammock
Ian and Santa action photo Santa fetching some coconuts
Local villagers passing by Old fishing boats in the estuary
Our evening commute home from the beach
Mandatory scooter ride Might have to join Coconut Shake-aholics Anonymous soon
One of many beautiful sunsets on Koh Chang
Taking in the view

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December 2, 2011

Little Eden

by Anna

After traveling for 27 hours with barely any sleep, the planet seems a little off kilter. In a half-conscious haze Johnny and I knew that good things were upon us as we arrived at our final airport in Trat, Thailand. We were driven from the runway in a Disneyland-esque trolley past elephant topiaries to the thatched-roof “terminal” where nice, smiley men handed us our luggage. The good vibes continued to grow stronger as we boarded the ferry boat to Koh Chang and experienced our first Thai fruit shake. Another very warm and friendly lady scooped an entire mango out of its skin, plopped it in a blender and added a big mound of ice. Whiz, brrrrr, and voila! Mango shake. Maybe the most sweet, delicious shake I’ve ever had, and for $1 to boot. The journey continued to our first stop, Little Eden at Lonely Beach. Not just a clever name, these bungalows nestled in the palm trees really became a little paradise for us.

If only all airports were this nice…
The path to our bungalow at Little Eden Our home for a week

After a good 14 hours of sleep our first night we felt back to normal and quickly slipped into “Thai island time,” which is even slower (I think) than “Hawaii time.” There is just an immediate and overwhelming sense of peace, happiness and relaxation on the island. Although we loved our time in South Africa, we were happy to be rid of security gates and away from the distinct feeling of have and have-nots – the giant separation between rich and poor. So far, to me, this place feels the exact opposite. Even though it is a little rough around the edges (eg: the trash pick-up situation could use some work), everyone seems happy and content even though they don’t have “a lot” (in the material sense of the term). Johnny and I could see right away why people get “sucked in” to this island…a phrase that we have heard often since we arrived. Life is simple – in the best way possible.

The village by Lonely Beach

Besides our three seriously fun and seriously awesome days spent getting scuba certified through BB Divers (read more about that here), we really did a whole lot of nothing. It was great. After spending the better part of November driving across South Africa in our Nissan Tiida (always with our guard on), we were feeling a little bit like we needed a vacation from our vacation.

The Tiida was looking as beat up as we felt after our last of many 6-8 hour drives (yup, our hubcap was in the back seat)

We spent most of our evenings hanging out in the restaurant/lounge at Little Eden where the squirrely British owner, David, played good mellow tunes causing us to melt even further onto our floor cushions. The food was cheap and amazing, and the whole place had a good energy so we were hard pressed to find a reason to leave.

Our favorite spot at Little Eden
We did venture out one night to have dinner on the water and see a Reggae band on the beach

During the days we’d sit down on the beach, float around in the super warm water, grab some Pad Thai and fruit shakes at Nature Rocks (where people would often nap on their cushions after eating lunch) and maybe indulge in an $8 massage. Lonely Beach is known for being more of a touristy/party beach, but we wanted to stay there because it was close to our scuba school. We managed to avoid all the bad, loud music and really only noticed the party atmosphere by the fact that no one emerged onto the beach, or anywhere else really, until after noon. There were quite a few people selling bracelets and sarongs on the beach, but they were the least aggressive, most good-natured hawkers I’ve ever been around. A typical encounter would go something like: “Bracelets?” “No, thanks.” “Ok, good luck to you, good journey (accompanied by a big smile, of course).”

Can’t get enough Pad Thai and coconut shakes
Lonely Beach

If it isn’t already obvious, we’re smitten with Thailand, and yes, Johnny has already started looking up available real estate on the island. Koh Chang has made a pretty darn good first impression, and I’m sure it will only get better as we discover more of this beautiful country and its people.

Oh, and did I mention that Koh Chang has incredible sunsets?
They are glorious
The water looked like it was on fire

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December 2, 2011

Go To South Africa

by Johnny

We’ve been in Thailand for over a week now (which is amazing, by the way…if Anna and I were any more relaxed we’d be in comas), but we wanted to say a few last words about South Africa.  To be honest, even after we booked our flights to South Africa we had some apprehension about traveling there.  Whenever we would discuss our round-the-world trip itinerary with anybody, the South Africa segment would almost always elicit a “oooh…be really, really careful” response.  One American woman we met in Croatia (who had never been to South Africa) went as far as to tell us, “If you get lost driving around South Africa, chances are you will get murdered.”  Gee, thanks for that.  Well, while we certainly kept our wits about us and used common sense (didn’t walk around alone at night, didn’t pick up hitchhikers, researched driving directions, etc.), we can’t recall a time where we felt threatened or unsafe.  To the contrary, we found South Africa to have such a joyous culture (which is amazing considering how little the majority have), and we found all the locals we met to be friendly and welcoming.  I mean, we didn’t even get murdered once!

South Africa does have a high crime rate…there’s no denying that.  But if you’re putting off visiting the country because of some preconceived notions about safety, don’t.  Our advice is to go.  Take some necessary precautions and exercise some common sense, but go.  Go for one-of-a-kind Cape Town and its Neighborgoods market.  Go for the stunning scenery of the Cape Peninsula.  Go for Bohemian Kalk Bay.  Go for the food and wine in Franschhoek.  Go for the Karoo’s magical landscape.  Go for the gorgeous coastline of the Garden Route.  Go for the culture and the smiling Xhosa people of the Wild Coast.  Go for one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the world in the Drakensberg.  Go for the mind-blowing wildlife in Kruger National Park.  Go for the craftwork, art and music.  Oh my…the music.  Everywhere you go there are kids drumming, clapping, harmonizing and dancing.  Try starting your day off with this and see if you’re not grinning from ear to ear (Soweto Gospel Choir – Seteng Sediba):

Go for some perspective.  Go to South Africa.

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November 29, 2011

PADI, Thailand Style

by Anna

We’ve spent the past three days on the beautiful island of Koh Chang getting scuba certified! We can owe the decision to get certified to my brother who bought us lessons last Christmas through Sport Chalet in anticipation of he and his girlfriend meeting up with us in Thailand this coming January. They love to dive and wanted to be able to take advantage of Thailand’s infamous diving with us. With work and a tight schedule leading up to our trip, we realized we weren’t going to be able to fit in the scuba classes at home (plus we weren’t very excited about taking our first dives in the freezing cold ocean at home in February!), so we opted to get certified once we arrived to Thailand through BB Divers. What a great decision that turned out to be!! Not only did we have the most awesome instructor of all time, Patrick, who exemplifies the lifestyle around here…(he came here 8 years ago from Holland on vacation and never left and told us that ‘he doesn’t make tons of money, but that he loves what he does and loves his life’ – a simply perfect outlook if you ask me); we also had the most fun dive crew, the most beautiful backdrop and crystal clear, warm water.

The PADI Open Water Certification course took three days. We spent our first day watching informational DVDs, taking written tests (we passed, phew!) and practicing skills in the pool. The next two days were spent on a boat diving around islands in Koh Rang National Marine Park and other amazing spots. With 20 meters of visibility on most of our dives we were able to see unbelievable underwater worlds in all their glory and were even lucky enough to spend some quality time with a giant green sea turtle who was most likely 70 years old! Johnny and I relished the whole experience and couldn’t believe how much we loved diving. Swimming among giant schools of glowing fish, being surrounded by other-worldly masses of coral and floating in peaceful silence at the bottom of the sea are truly special experiences.

Boarding the original Thai fishing boat adapted for diving
Garlands tied to the bow of the boat to honor water spirits for good luck and protection
Dive Master Wee checking out the water Scuba gear ready to go
Islands dotting the turquoise waters
After our final dive with Patrick
Certified!!

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November 24, 2011

Happy Thaigiving!

by Anna

This year we’re trading turkey and mashed potatoes for shrimp and Pad Thai! We are so thankful to be here in this beautiful part of the world with each other, and are so grateful for our amazing family and friends who have been so supportive of this journey.
We love you and miss you!!!

Happy Thanksgiving ♥

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